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Kalifornijski Zinfandel i njegov uspjeh

Kalifornijski Zinfandel i njegov uspjeh


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Zinfandel, nije tajna da sam s vama imao dugu i intimnu vezu. Toliko toga imate za ponuditi. Ponekad ste pomalo grubi i posrnuli, nervozni, čak i opasni, dok ste ponekad sramežljivi ili razigrani. Ali uvijek ste tu za mene, s radosnim voćem, klasičnim notama bradavice i strukturom, što omogućuje ranu konzumaciju, pružajući određenu dozu dostojanstva i dobro se slaže sa širokim i raznovrsnim jelima.

Pa, recimo da si gotovo uvijek tu za mene. Godinama smo, zapravo, zinfandel i ja malo posvađali. Kad alkoholi dosegnu više od 16 posto, zin i ja stvari jednostavno ne idu glatko. Da, moglo bi prikupiti mnogo bodova i više od poštenoga dijela pažnje, ali za mene je zinfandel, između ostalog, vino hedonista. I u tom svjetlu, njegova prva odgovornost je pružiti užitak piću. Koliko god bih mogao biti impresioniran masivnim, gustim čudovištem od zinfandela, iskreno rečeno, ne smatram da je taj stil ugodan.

Na sreću svih nas, zinfandel je u posljednje vrijeme doživio renesansu; ne samo da su vina postala izraženija u raznolikosti i mjestu, već su i sama mjesta postala bolje cijenjena. To je dobrim dijelom posljedica osnivača Povijesnog društva vinograda, neprofitne organizacije osnovane radi promicanja, zaštite i očuvanja povijesnih vinograda Kalifornije. Vrijedi provjeriti njihovu web stranicu i zahvaliti im se na svakoj prilici za posao koji obavljaju u razumijevanju koliko su posebni ti stari vinogradi - i koliko vina koja proizvode mogu biti jedinstvena.

Ova ponovna procjena ovih posebnih vinograda dovela je mnoge vinare do boljeg razumijevanja terora velikih parcela starog vinovog zinfandela i o kakvom se blagu radi. Ne postoji više niti jedan model izgrađen na filozofiji „više je bolje“ koji je nanio značajnu štetu kalifornijskoj vinskoj industriji u posljednja dva desetljeća (i čije posljedice još uvijek podnosimo). Na njegovom mjestu rodio se napor da se u svakom vinu izrazi nešto jedinstveno. Više nego čak i s cabernetom, koji za moje nepce i dalje pati od monotonije rođene od savršenog modela, zinfandel izražava terroir.

Ideja je jednostavna: budući da su mnogi, ako ne i većina, ovih vinograda od zinfandela zapravo mješavine polja u jednom ili drugom stupnju, ne bi se trebali izražavati na isti način. Da, postoji skupina oznaka koje jedna regija može dijeliti, ali nema razloga da susjedni vinogradi imaju isti okus. Oslobođeni pokušaja da se uhvati ideal - najvažniji zinfandel u dolini Napa - znači da vinari mogu biti osjetljiviji i bolji pastiri jedinstvenih osobina koje im pruža svaki vinograd.

Kliknite ovdje da biste saznali više o berbama Zinfandela u Kaliforniji.

- Gregory Del Piaz, Snooth


21 zadivljujući Zinfandel koji možete kupiti odmah

Najvažnija sorta grožđa America & rsquos ima stjenovitu reputaciju, ali evo nekoliko istaknutih Zinfandela koje treba potražiti.

Zinfandel ima prtljagu. Sva vina to rade, ali sa Zinfandelom nije rijetkost čuti da ljudi raspravljaju o suštinskoj sorti grožđa Amerike u preširokim terminima: superzrelo, otvoreno usredotočeno na voće, visoko oktansko.  

I dok zasigurno postoji mnogo Zinova koji odgovaraju tom opisu, kategorija je daleko šira od toga, s vinima ozbiljnih nijansi, složenosti i stilskih varijacija.

�, ta je karakterizacija Zinfandela kao superzrelog itd. doista nesretna. Stvarnost je daleko složenija ", rekao je Joel Peterson, utjecajni" Zinfandelov kum "koji je osnovao Ravenswood 1976. godine i sada proizvodi izuzetna vina pod svojom novom etiketom" Once and Future ". “Zapravo, Zinfandel je u svojoj povijesti prošao [brojne] promjene stila. U � -im i ranim � -im godinama smatralo se čvrstim stolnim vinom [i] obično između 12 i 13,5% [alkohola]. Možda je to bilo najviše konzumirano crno vino u Kaliforniji, često u vrču. Tada je, rekao je, ”, rekao je, šezdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, ljudi su otkrili zrela vina Amador s alkoholom koja su se povremeno približavala 17%, a često su bila poput porta s zaostalim šećerom. Ova su vina nakratko zahvatila tisak i cognoscenti, ali nisu dobro odležala i stvorila su negativnu reakciju na ovu mrlju vina, koja je izgleda ostala na imidžu grožđa. ”

Ovih je dana, međutim, California Zinfandel daleko pristupačniji, a najbolji od njih proizvedeni su u stilu koji, prema Petersonu, ističe “ dobro voće i začine bez … zastoja [i] ljupke ravnoteže kiselina. & #x201D On ukazuje na proizvođače poput Bedrocka, Bialea, Ridgea, svojih vlastitih vina Once and Future i Storybook Mountain koji ilustriraju ovaj pomak.

Rebecca Robinson, izvršna direktorica ZAP -a, Zinfandel Advocates & amp Producers, naglasila je svestranost Zinfandela, kao i njegovu sposobnost da s izvrsnom jasnoćom prenese osjećaj terora. “Zinfandel doista pokazuje široku paletu svestranosti i može se uzgajati u vinskim regijama Kalifornije, ” je objasnila. “To je razlog zašto Zinfandels iz okruga Mendocino može pokazati izrazit karakter maline i trešnje, dok Amador Zinfandels može sadržavati crni papar i anis. U posljednjih osam godina definitivno je došlo do povratka u ravnotežu u vinarstvu Zinfandel. I, naravno, postoje potrošači koji prihvaćaju smjeliju stranu Zinfandela. ”

Za pravi osjećaj odnosa Zinfandela s određenim terroirom, Robinson predlaže da se usredotočite na boce za jedno vinograde. “ZAP je prošle godine proveo istraživanje, a od preko 1400 vinograda koji proizvode Zinfandel u Kaliforniji, bilo je klasificirano 460 oznaka pojedinačnih vinograda. Postoji i više vinarija koje proizvode vina iz jednog vinograda iz istog vinograda, što dokazuje kvalitetnu reputaciju ovog grožđa. ”  

 Tijekom kušanja nekoliko desetaka Zinfandela za ovaj članak, zapanjila me nevjerojatna raznolikost stilova među svima njima, izvrsna vrijednost čak i najizrazitijih boca za jedno vinograd i sposobnost mojih favorita među njima da ostanu uravnotežen i energičan u širokom rasponu postotaka alkohola.

Ovdje je 21 od mojih omiljenih, abecedno navedenih.

2018 Alquimista Cellars Jessie ’s Grove Ancient Vine Zinfandel Lodi (57 USD)

Od vinove loze starije od 130 godina, ovo je velikodušno, mesnato i začinjeno, s kiselim zgusnutim i koncentriranim okusima šljiva i hrskavog bobičastog voća koje se razlučuju u izrazito slanoj noti. Prvenstveno Zinfandel, s Carignaneom, Flame Tokayom, Crnim princem, Misijom i Malvazijom Biancom.

2017 Andis Original Grandp ère Vinograd Zinfandel Sierra Foothills (45 USD)

Zin ovdje potječe iz vinograda zasađenog 1869. (još u vrijeme administracije Granta!) I nakapanog začinjenom košticom trešnje i trešnje, sušenim origanom i aromama timijana koji prelaze u sočno nepce koje je po svom bogatstvu gotovo poput lučkog koncentracija ipak puno više od zrelog voća: Ovo je također slano, sa slatkim sladićem i duboko prepečenim sjemenkama komorača, te s puno energije za kupine, orah i borovnice, s naznakama tijesta s keksima s vanilijom na kraju.

Vinogradi Bella 2015. i Vinske špilje Javorovi vinogradi Annie ’s Block Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley (55 USD)

Rane faze zrelosti tek su počele svijetliti na nosu, s naznakama maslaca, cedra, duhana i marelica koje su dovele do nepca slatkog voća, lijepo koncentriranog, a ipak ne preplavljujućeg, s pecivom od višanja, graham pite od krekera kora i mješavina planinskih bobica, trešanja i ribiza. Na završetku postoji tračak ružmarina, kao i prijedlog ulja naranče i espresso zrna s čokoladom.


Zašto biste trebali početi piti bijeli zinfandel

White Zinfandel vino je Paris Hilton: jeftino, nepodnošljivo glupo, ali ipak nekako moderno i vrijedno vijesti godinama nakon što je njezin reality show otkazan.

Poput djeteta hotelskih milijardera, i ovaj ružičasti vinski ekvivalent bio je naknadna zamisao. Godine 1972., u često zaboravljenom komadu sjeverne Kalifornije, poznatom kao okrug Amador, Sutter Home stvorio je svoj prvi "White Zinfandel" kada je odvojio malo fermentiranog soka od grožđa od onog što će postati crno vino od Zinfandela. Krajnji je rezultat bilo bolesno-slatko, svijetlo ružičasto vino poznato po tome što je većini zaljubljenika u vino trznulo kičmu i nasmijalo se bakama i plavušama u bocama posvuda.

Usuđujem li se postaviti pitanje zaslužuje li White Zinfandel svoju reputaciju vrijednu gega? Bi li Paris Hiltons i Franzias zapravo mogli ponuditi više svijetu, pogotovo jer prodaja roséa u Sjedinjenim Državama nastavlja rasti?

Ovo je posljednji vadičep koji ćete ikada kupiti

Prvo, pogledajmo kako je White Zin sletio na dno poslovične bačve vina:
Postupak koji se koristi za izradu bijelog zinfandela, poznat kao metoda saignee ili krvarenja, već je dugo uobičajen unutar i izvan Sjedinjenih Država. U osnovi, proces koncentrira crna vina uklanjanjem dijela ružičastog soka i dopuštanjem preostalom vinu više kontakta s kožicama grožđa koje izazivaju boju. Budući da je proces tako jednostavan za izvođenje, većini ružičastih vina učinio je prikladnim potraživanja za vinarije i naknadne misli vinarima. Nije baš recept za kvalitetna, mješovita vina.

Kako je potražnja za jeftinim bijelim zinfandelom naglo porasla nakon što je Sutter Home predstavio svoj slučajni omamljivač, vinarije su shvatile da je isplativije koristiti jeftino grožđe s nepoželjnih lokacija, poput kalifornijske pustinje AKA Central Valley, umjesto korištenja kvalitetnijeg voća Napa ili Amador. Uvođenje vrećaste ambalaže krajem 70-ih bilo je još jedan eliminator troškova i još jedan korak dolje za White Zin i njegovu reputaciju.

Sljedećih 80-ih White Zinfandel postao je mješalica za spricer vina i lošu sangriju, a svojstvena slatkoća –koja je u početku privlačila ljubitelje pića koji su koristili gazirane ili voćne koktele – učinila ga je vinom namijenjenim maloljetnicima za piće i ljepljivo plavuše umjesto odraslih.

Poznavatelji idu dalje od toga što im se jednostavno ne sviđa White Zin, gledaju s visine na način na koji kemičar dobitnik Pulitzerove nagrade gleda Pariz kad kaže "To je vruće", i zna da nikad nije koristila termometar.

No, na mnogo načina slatki ružičasti komad ne zaslužuje tako loš rep jer je, moglo bi se reći, bio ulaz u američku renesansu roséa. Od 2014. uvoz roséa povećan je devetu godinu zaredom, a američki rosé počinje odgovarati ili dominirati uvozom na policama vinoteka.

Djelomično rast dolazi od proizvođača koji ciljaju na "snobove" ili "znalce" koji se tako snažno odmiču od bijelog zinfandela u korist suhog ružičastog. Ti su vinogradi početkom 90 -ih počeli uzgajati grožđe posebno za ružičasta vina, obično su ih brali ranije kako bi zadržali osvježavajuću razinu kiseline i svijetle voćne okuse koji potječu od crnog grožđa.

Ipak, unatoč porastu potrošnje roséa, White Zin i dalje ima veliku stigmu, a mnogi Zinfandel rosé –dry ili na neki drugi način##jednostavno su označeni kao rosé ili vin gris kako bi se izbjeglo otuđivanje potrošača. ‘

No sada, kako temperature rastu i nova berba ružičastih plodova preplavljuje tržište, ti isti ljudi koji bi koristili samo boce Sutter Home kao igle za kuglanje svesrdno uranjaju u igru ​​'White Zinfandel'. Kalifornijski kultni vinski podrumi Turley bili su među prvima koji su počeli uzimati White Zinfandel sa svoje slatke reputacije 2011. Od tada je Turley proizveo prekrasno vino od grožđa Napa Valley koje je još uvijek iznenađujuće pristupačno (22 USD). 2011. se rasprodala u dva sata, unatoč oznaci "White Zin", a sljedeće berbe su se prodale gotovo jednako brzo. Bijeli zinfandel iz 2014. svijetli je i voćni na nosu s odličnim tonovima jagode, te potpuno suh. Kao što vinar Tegan Passalaqua kaže: "To je ono što Francuzi jednostavno zovu rosé."

Slično, Berkeley's Broc Cellars proizvodi suhi, svijetli grimizni ruž s voćem iz Sonome koji također stavlja "White Zinfandel" ravno na etiketu (24 USD).

S takvim stavom američki vinari ozbiljno zagrizaju u ružičasti posao, u kojem tradicionalno dominiraju masovni proizvođači i Provansa. Budući da White Zin i dalje čini 10% ukupnog vina u Americi od 2006., kladio bih se da bi pristojan dio njihovog uspjeha došao ne unatoč White Zinfandelu, već zbog njega i renesanse koju je stvorio.


Sonoma California vinske ture za ljubitelje Zinfandela

Što se tiče Zinfandela, Amerikanci su jednostavno ludi za crvenom i bijelom verzijom, što ga čini trećom najzgnječenijom sortom grožđa u SAD -u, odmah iza Cabernet Sauvignona i Chardonnaya. Što se tiče uzgoja i flaširanja zinova, Kalifornija je kralj, pa volite li lijepu osvježavajuću čašu blago slatkog bijelog zinfandela za vrućeg ljetnog dana ili volite intenzivno voćne, začinske crvene verzije za svakog u Kaliforniji za svakog ponešto. . Uz lijepo vrijeme tijekom cijele godine, u bilo koje doba godine dobro je vrijeme za obilazak nekih od najboljih mjesta na svijetu za uzgoj ovog američkog favorita.

Izvorno nejasna hrvatska sorta grožđa, Zinfandel je u Ameriku došao početkom 19. stoljeća. Uzgaja se u mnogim regijama uzgoja grožđa u Kaliforniji od doline Cucamonga na krajnjem jugu do sjeverne granice s Oregonom. Iz bilo kojeg većeg kalifornijskog grada možete uživati ​​u doživljaju Zinfandela u vinskoj zemlji.

Iako je grožđe Zinfandel prisutno već duže vrijeme, bijeli zinfandel nije nastao do 1970 -ih. Obiteljski vinograd Sutter Home u dolini Napa nadaleko je zaslužan za stvaranje onoga što je postalo poznato kao "vino za rumenilo"#8221 kada su napravili ros & eacute od Zinfandela, ali su prekinuli fermentaciju malo rano kako bi osigurali da ima primjesa zaostalog šećera. Danas, jeftini bijeli zin daleko nadmašuje njegove skuplje crvene kolege i obično ga proizvode velike vinarije poput Beringera i Sutter Homea.

Što se tiče crvenih zinova, postoji širok raspon stilova, kvalitete i cijene. Obično imaju visok sadržaj alkohola, a kad su vrlo zreli, prave dobra pustinjska vina s okusom sličnim portu. Tri od najboljih regija u Kaliforniji po crvenim zinovima su okrug Amador u podnožju Sierre, okrug Sonoma i Paso Robles.

Okrug Amador idealno je mjesto za provesti nekoliko dana provjeravajući državu California Gold Rush i ispijajući srdačne zrnce, dok ste još samo sat vremena udaljeni od grada Sacramenta. Kušaonice su ovdje uglavnom male obiteljske tvrtke u kojima često možete razgovarati s vinom, pomaziti obiteljskog psa i uživati ​​u ručku za piknik. I da, još uvijek možete tražiti zlato i vidjeti tragove rustikalne atmosfere Divljeg zapada koja je inspirirala pisce poput Marka Twaina.

U okrugu Sonoma postoji mnogo dobrih mikroklima za Zinfandel uključujući područja doline Dry Creek i Rockpile. Neka grad Healdsburg bude vaša polazna točka za obilazak brojnih izvanrednih proizvođača cinka. Ako je na vašem dnevnom redu fino jelo, ovo je ujedno i savršeno odredište za isprobavanje neke od najboljih kuhinja sjeverne Kalifornije.

Ako vas planovi za godišnji odmor u Kaliforniji odvedu u regiju Središnja obala, svakako navratite u Paso Robles kako biste kušali zinfandelske i crvene mješavine na bazi zinfandela koje će vam razbiti čarape. Iako se vino proizvodi u tom području već duže vrijeme, fokus vinarstva počeo se premještati s jeftinih vina na visokokvalitetna butik vina 1980-ih i#8217-ih, a danas se neka od najuzbudljivijih vina u Kaliforniji proizvode u Paso Roblesu.

Kad krenete prema sunčanoj Kaliforniji, dobra degustacija vina Zinfandel nikad nije daleko. Uzorak nekoliko pri sljedećem posjetu i znat ćete zašto će američka ljubav sa Zinfandelom vjerojatno ostati trajna.


Zinfandel: Kalifornijsko naslijeđe grožđa

Zinfandel, hvaljen kao grožđe naslijeđa Kalifornije i rsquosa, suštinski je američki fenomen. & Rsquos ljutito, robusno i glasno, izazovno straga, ljubitelj roštilja. California Zins mogu biti začinjeni i papreni, a često sadrže svijetlo, sočno voće poput borovnice, maline i šljive. Vina se često opisuju kao & ldquobrambly & rdquo & mdash, što znači da su njihovi voćni okusi divlji i bodljikavi, bez nedostatka laka s rubovima vanilije koji biste mogli pronaći u sortama poput Cabernet Sauvignona.

U pravom američkom stilu, poznato je da je Zin postao previše ljut: Dugi niz godina većina kalifornijskog zina na tržištu bila je ili džemasta i bez pića, ili poluslatka i ružičasta. Danas slika ne bi mogla biti drugačija. Kvalitetno nastrojene vinarije proizvode Zinfandelse koji pariraju državnim i najboljim Cabernetima što se tiče ozbiljnosti i starosti i u međuvremenu izražavaju, na neki način, kalifornijski granični duh bolje nego što je to grožđe moglo.

Čak se i bijeli Zinfandel & mdash, suha ruža koju je slučajno stvorio Bob Trinchero u Sutter Home & mdash sada radi pomnije, a neki proizvođači Zina izbacuju suhe, strukturirane verzije tog ružičastog vina. Iako je White Zin i dalje iznimno popularan u cijeloj Americi, on više nije lice California Zinfandela, a to je dobra stvar.

Grožđe Zinfandel teško se uzgaja, ozloglašeno neujednačeno zrenje. No, vinova loza Zinfandel također starijom uči samoregulaciju, zbog čega najstarija preživjela vinova loza u Kaliforniji proizvodi neka od svojih najupečatljivijih vina. Ovdje je vjerojatno još više 100-godišnjih zasada Zina nego bilo koje druge sorte grožđa, a ako dobijete priliku kušati vino napravljeno od tih stogodišnjih loza & mdash ili, još bolje, prošećite vinogradom & mdash pay posebnu pozornost.

Iako je Zin na ovim obalama stekao reputaciju, grožđe je, poput mnogih Amerikanaca, useljenik. Podrijetlom iz Hrvatske, gdje je poznat i kao Tribidrag, klon je grožđa Primitivo, iz južne Italije i regije Puglia. Za otkriće genetskog podrijetla Zinfandel & rsquos, imamo Carole Meredith, profesoricu emerita na U.C. Davis, hvala. Uz poticaj najpoznatijeg Hrvata iz Napa Valley -a, Mikea Grgicha, Meredith je preslikala genetske profile mnogih različitih sorti grožđa duž dalmatinske obale (za čije se grožđe Plavac Mali u jednom trenutku mislilo, pogrešno, isto kao i Zinfandel), sve dok nije pronašla točno podudaranje u Tribidragu. Danas Meredith i njezin suprug Steve Lagier izrađuju izvrstan Zinfandel, s oznakom Tribidrag, iz svog vinograda na planini Mt. Veeder.

Glavne regije Kalifornije:
Lodi Sierra Foothills Contra Costa County Paso Robles Sonoma County, osobito Valley Dry Creek Valley sub-AVA Napa Valley, posebno planine.

Karakteristični okusi:
Začin, papar, šumsko voće, borovnica, malina, boysenberry


Ros & eacute vs. White Zinfandel

Ros é i bijeli Zinfandel izrađuju se iznimno sličnim metodama. Vinarstvo je složen zanat koji zahtijeva mnogo više objašnjenja nego što je ovdje praktično zaroniti. U naše svrhe doista trebate znati da se ros é najčešće proizvodi tako da se ljuske crvenog grožđa fermentiraju s vinom samo nekoliko sati. Nasuprot tome, mnoga crna vina fermentiraju nekoliko tjedana. Budući da je kontakt ros é ’s s kožicama grožđa kraći, njegova je boja svjetlija.

Ros é može se napraviti od bilo kojeg crvenog grožđa, ali bijeli Zin je napravljen od —pogodili ste —Zinfandel grožđa.

Što se tiče okusa, bijeli Zinfandel općenito je slađi, ružičastiji i manje složen od mnogih sorti roze é. Ros é mogu biti suhi ili slatki. Također se može razlikovati u boji od rumenila do svijetlo crvene.


U Zinfandelu Brawn pobjeđuje

Vinska škola, mjesečna kolumna, poziva vas da popijete vino s Ericom Asimovim. U svakoj obroci gospodin Asimov odabire vrstu vina koju ćete probati kod kuće. Nakon mjesec dana, gospodin Asimov objavljuje svoju reakciju na vino i obraća se razmišljanjima i pitanjima čitatelja. Lipanjski je zadatak bio rizling. Srpanjski je zadatak bio Zinfandel Gospodin Asimov u nastavku iznosi svoja razmišljanja o ovom vinu.

U vinu, kao i na svim poljima, ljude privlači ono što voli. Osobni ukus bogata je, uvjerljiva i tajanstvena sila koja se uvijek mora poštivati ​​čak i ako se ne može u potpunosti objasniti. Njegove su hirovitosti istaknute u svakoj raspravi o zinfandelu, vinu za koje se čini da ima snažan polarizacijski učinak.

Dobrodošli natrag u Vinsku školu, gdje svakog mjeseca odaberemo posebno vino za istraživanje, a zatim se četiri tjedna kasnije ponovno sastanemo kako bismo podijelili dojmove i uvide. Ideja je piti to vino s obzirom, u prirodnom okruženju s hranom, prijateljima ili obitelji. Pažnjom na vino u atmosferi koja naglašava znatiželju i užitak nada je postići veći osjećaj lakoće i samopouzdanja te bolje razumijevanje vlastitih okusa. Ako se već osjećate ugodno, Vinska škola prilika je da preispitate svoje pretpostavke, izoštrite svoja zapažanja i podijelite svoja razmišljanja.

Ovdje se govori o zinfandelu, vinu koje vapi za ponovnim ispitivanjem s obzirom na uvriježena mišljenja koja izgleda ima toliko ljudi o njemu. Nije ni čudo. Zinfandel je danas najčešće veliko, moćno vino s vrstom snažne osobnosti koja praktički zahtijeva od potrošača da zauzmu stav. Ili voliš ili ostavljaš.

Bojim se da sam jedan od onih koji su to u velikoj mjeri napustili, iako sam to nekada volio. Kako sam početkom 1980 -ih postao student vina, zinfandel mi je bio jedan od najdražih. Bilo je voćno, što je bilo lako razumjeti, a ipak je ispunjeno temeljnom ljutinom, što ga je učinilo dovoljno zanimljivim za povratak iznova i iznova.

Međutim, s godinama smo zinfandel i ja krenuli različitim putovima. Činilo se da prevladavajući stil zinfandela postaje sve veći i teži, pri čemu se razina alkohola penje do goleme visine, 16 posto ili više, a okusi često djeluju džemasto i pečeno. Krenuo sam u suprotnom smjeru, više sa suptilnim, nijansiranim vinima koja su napravljena da nadopune hranu za stolom, a ne da impresioniraju gutljajem. Zinfandel je, po mom mišljenju, postao poput porta, nešto za njegu nakon obroka ili prelivanje sladoleda.

Okusi se mijenjaju. Što više različitih vina pijemo, to se više razvijaju naše sklonosti i važnije je zadržati otvoren um. U protivnom riskiramo postati uski i netolerantni, brkajući osobne sklonosti s vrijednostima. Bar u to vjerujem. Usredotočenost na zinfandel prošlog mjeseca obvezala me da testiram ta uvjerenja.

Zinfandel svakako ima svoje obožavatelje. "Volim velikog, moćnog zinfandela", napisao je Ken Elmer iz Northamptona, Mass. "Nijansu ću ostaviti drugim vinima."

I drugi čitatelji dijelili su moju zabrinutost, posebno u ovo doba godine. "Bilo mi je lako preskočiti ovomjesečnu lekciju", napisao je Bauskern iz Nove Engleske. "Zgrozila sam se od pomisli da ću popiti" velike "ili" moćne "zinfandele, kako su ih neki čitatelji opisali, u vrućini ljeta."

Ken je u Baltimoreu napisao: „Zinfandel? U srpnju? Vratit ću se ovome u studenom. ”

Razumijem refleksni sezonski odgovor koji mnogi ljudi imaju, ali ne nužno se slažem. Mogao sam razumjeti pojam da ne pijem ništa osim svijetlih bijelih i nježnih crvenih boja ljeti ako jedem samo osjetljivu hranu. No nije li i ljetna sezona roštiljanja? Ne kuhaju li ljudi barem povremeno debele odreske, rebra s glazurom od umaka i hamburgere? Nasuprot tome, pijemo li samo jaka crvena na hladnoći? Nije li zima glavna sezona kamenica? U ovo klimatizirano doba, kada ljudi nose džempere u restorane čak i po najtoplijim danima, sezonalnost znači manje nego što je to nekad bila.

Grožđe najpoznatije kao zinfandel i najviše identificirano s Kalifornijom zapravo potječe iz Hrvatske, gdje je prvo bilo poznato kao tribidrag. Putovao je u Sjedinjene Američke Države početkom 19. stoljeća, a procvat je doživio u Kaliforniji kasnije u 1800 -ima, kada je obilno posađen.

Neki od tih vinograda sada su među najstarijima u Sjevernoj Americi, nakon što su preživjeli zabranu, depresiju i filokseru, uši koja ubija vinovu lozu koja je opustošila grožđe europskog podrijetla. Ovakvi su vinogradi američko blago, a organizacije poput Povijesnog društva za vinograde rade na njihovom očuvanju.

Iako su mnogi od ovih vinograda poznati po svom zinfandelu, oni nisu nužno 100 posto zinfandel. Osim zinfandela, mogu uključivati ​​male sire, carignan, alicante bouchet i ponekad grožđe koje nije identificirano. Jedan od ovih starijih vinograda, Lytton Estate u dolini Dry Creek, bio je izvor za jedno od naša tri preporučena vina, 2011. Ridge Lytton Springs. Grožđe, uglavnom zinfandel s malo sitne sire i carignana, potjecalo je s trsova starih 50 do 110 godina.

Slika

Kakve veze ima starost vinograda s vinom? Kako vinova loza prolazi srednju dob, prinosi opadaju, a grožđe postaje manje i koncentrirano. Pod pretpostavkom da je vinograd posađen na dobrom mjestu, vina mogu postati intenzivnija i složenija. Nažalost, izrazi poput "stare loze" ili "vieilles vignes" na francuskom jeziku nemaju malu definiciju ili pravno značenje kada se koriste na bocama. Trgovci ih često zloupotrebljavaju, što čini dokumentaciju rada grupa poput Povijesnog vinogradarskog društva toliko važnim.

Ti se stari vinogradi od zinfandela mogu pronaći po cijeloj Kaliforniji, od podnožja Sierre do okruga Sonoma, Napa i Contra Costa, do Paso Robles i Arroyo Grande pa čak i donje Kalifornije, što svjedoči ne samo o popularnosti zinfandela među ranim vinogradarima već i o njegovu sposobnost uspjeha u različitim vrstama terroira.

Što odmah skuhati

Sam Sifton ima prijedloge jelovnika za naredne dane. Na New York Times Cookingu čekaju vas tisuće ideja o tome što kuhati.

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    Od tri preporučena zinfandela, dva, 2011. Ridge i Dashe 2012., došli su iz doline Dry Creek u Sonomi. Treći, 2012. Juvenile iz Turleyja, nosi oznaku California jer je napravljen od mlade loze s nekoliko naziva.

    Za mene tri vina nisu mogla biti drugačija. Ćuretina je bila čista, s valovima okusa maline usklađena s laserskom preciznošću. Bio je gust i pun usta, ali nije bio težak. Niti je bilo pečeno ili džemasto. Ali (i ovo je veliko ali) jednostavno nisam htjela piti ovo vino. Umjesto zalogaja koji je inspirirao sljedeći gutljaj, ostavio mi je vruć osjećaj u ustima, a činilo se da preplavljuje okus moje večere, pečene suknje.

    Bio je to, zapravo, 15,5 posto alkohola, i iako je meni smetao, druge nije odvraćao. "Bio je to primamljiv početak s voćem prema naprijed i meki začini koji slijede", napisao je Howard Weintraub iz Harrisona u New Yorku. "Dobro se uklopio s pečenim telećim kotletom na žaru."

    Harley Mazuk iz Boyds, Md., Rekao je da Turley "poziva ne samo sljedeći gutljaj, već i sljedeći gutljaj."

    Druga dva vina su mi se više svidjela. Dashe je bio gladak i ukusno sočan, s intrigantnom pikantnošću. Imao je i dašak topline, ali nedovoljno da me odvrati od druge čaše.

    Najbolje od svega bio je Ridge. Bio je lijepo uravnotežen bez topline, iako je s 14,4 posto imao gotovo isti sadržaj alkohola kao i Dashe. Bilo je začinjeno, zemljano i biljno, složenije od ostalih vina, a pomalo i taninsko. Ipak, to su bila velika vina, a ja sam bio svjesniji njihove veličine i snage nego što bih volio.

    Iako su mi se vina dovoljno sviđala, to nije bilo transformacijsko iskustvo. Priznat ću, cijenim ljepotu zinfandela u drugim vinima manjeg obima, poput Dasheovog Les Enfants Terrible, koji se radi gotovo kao cru Beaujolais, i Broc Cellars Vine Starr zinfandel, koji je izrađen u svjetlijem, živahnijem stilu , na 12,7 posto. Vrijedi istaknuti da zinfandel po definiciji nije velik. Ridgeov Lytton Springs iz 1975. iznosio je samo 11,7 posto, a prema jednom nedavnom mjerodavnom izvješću ove se godine lijepo pilo.

    Ipak, bilo mi je drago vidjeti da su se neki čitatelji obratili. "Ovo je prvi zinfandel koji sam popio u desetljećima", rekao je Seancpa iz Pleasant Mount, PA. "To mi je otvorilo oči." Schap329 iz Richmonda, Va., Usporedio je greben s "veličanstvenom gotičkom katedralom", dodajući: "Zinfandel se upravo iskupio za mene."

    Neki su me čitatelji uzeli u zadatak da preporučim mlada vina, ističući kako zinfandel dobro stari i doseže svoj vrhunac oko 5 do 10 godina. Ipak, kao i kod Bordeauxa i rizlinga, nije lako kupiti dobro odležana vina. Ako ćemo podijeliti iskustvo pijenja, morat ćemo se zadovoljiti mladošću.

    Na kraju, razlike u ukusu i mišljenju su korisne. Osigurava raznolikost vina koja bi trebala usrećiti sve. To je, uostalom, i cilj.

    Ranije u Vinskoj školi.

    U srpnju su čitatelji raspoređeni u istražite Zinfandela. Možete se pridružiti razgovoru o ovom vinu tako što ćete pronaći vina i odgovoriti na pitanja koja Eric Asimov postavlja u nastavku.

    Do sada smo istraživali klasike Starog svijeta: Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Sancerre, suhi njemački rizling. Ovog mjeseca prelazimo na original iz Novog svijeta: zinfandel.

    Ne, zinfandel nije američko grožđe. Kao i kod velike većine vina svjetske klase, njegovo porijeklo je Stari svijet. Ako o tome želite čitati u “Vinskom grožđu”, mjerodavnoj enciklopediji Jancisa Robinsona, Julije Harding i Joséa Vouillamoza, preporučujemo da pogledate pod “tribidrag”, kako se u Hrvatskoj naziva, zinfandelovo rodno mjesto.

    Takva rigorozna taksonomija mogla bi izazvati prevrtanje očiju među praktički nastrojenim Amerikancima, koji s pravom primjećuju da je svako priznanje zbog tribidraga posljedica toga što je grožđe otputovalo u Kaliforniju i postalo u cijelom svijetu poznato kao zinfandel. Tribidrag ima i drugi nadimak, primitivo, kako ga zovu u regiji Puglia u Italiji.

    U Kaliforniji, zinfandel je imao trenutke širokog zagrljaja, a drugi razrješenja. Čini se da njegov dominantni stilski izraz varira od desetljeća i da se kreće od bistrog, zategnutog i začinskog do ekstravagantnog, ogromnog i sirupasta.

    Priznajem da sam se sam borio sa zinfandelom. Nisam ljubitelj blockbuster stila koji je bio u modi u prvom desetljeću ovog stoljeća. No, kao i kod mnogih vina, stilski se pomak dogodio i kod zinfandela, pri čemu je više proizvođača gravitiralo prema svježijim, nijansiranim vinima.

    The three zinfandels I suggest you look for this month more or less encompass the range of styles:

    Dashe Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2012, $21

    Turley California Zinfandel Juvenile 2012, $30

    Ridge Dry Creek Valley Lytton Springs 2011, $35

    Dashe gravitates toward the fresher style, while at one time Turley epitomized the extravagant style, though its wines, while still big, have become livelier and more precise. Ridge is consistently right down the middle, as it has been for decades. Comparing the three would be particularly rewarding.

    As always, not everybody will be able to find these examples. Each of these three producers makes more than a few zinfandel cuvées. The others are fine, too, and as an alternative you might consider wines from Nalle, Frog’s Leap, Ravenswood, Sky, Porter Creek, Bedrock, Green & Red, Broc Cellars, Limerick Lane, Rafanelli, Outpost, Quivira, Seghesio and Neyers.

    Zinfandel will complement burgers, barbecued ribs and other robust meats. It will also go well with grilled sausages, pizza, even eggplant Parmesan, although you may have more difficulty finding good matches with the bigger styles.

    Temperature is important: If the wine is too warm, especially in the summer, it will be flaccid and fatiguing. You don’t want to serve it icy cold, just cool, after maybe 20 minutes in the fridge.


    Edgewood Estate Winery

    The factual history that Edgewood Estate Winery possesses is one that many Napa Valley wineries would give their eyeteeth to own even a portion of. The history is also a reminder that many winery operations are quite cyclical in nature and at this point in its evolution, Edgewood Estate is well back on the road to vinous competition and even superiority.

    It all began back in 1873 with William Peterson, a successful New England sea captain, who departed New England’s harsh winters and settled into a more tranquil existence in Northern California. He immediately purchased a 40-plus acre parcel in Napa Valley that is the site of today’s Edgewood Estate Winery. It is recorded that the vineyards began bearing fruit in 1879 and by 1885, the fully operational Peterson Winery produced a total of 11,350 cases, quite a respectable number for that period of time.

    Unfortunately, a series of personal and professional tragedies befell Peterson until he was finally forced to sell his winery. History records that in 1891, William Peterson sold the winery and its contents to Robert Bergfeld for a sum of 6,000 gold coin. It is also noted that phylloxera had destroyed most of the existing vineyards at the winery. In fact, a total of over 15,000 acres were destroyed in Northern California during the phylloxera outbreak of that period. Bergfeld worked and developed the winery for the next fifteen years until the catastrophic earthquake of 1906 forced him to close its operation.

    Historical accuracy jumps a bit until 1910 when the winery was again sold, this time to a Theodore Gier. Gier was already active in the Napa Wine business and had already built two existing wineries. In 1904 he constructed a winery on Spring Mountain that is today’s Keenan Winery, and a year later, built a small stone winery which is the modern day Hess Collection Winery. Gier operated the expansive business (he had wine holdings as far away as the Livermore Valley) for a decade until he sold his entire Napa Valley operations to O.J. LeBaron of neighboring Healdsburg in Sonoma County.

    Next came Prohibition and its death-like consequences for many wineries. LeBaron’s enterprise suffered the same fate as most of his neighbors. The winery finally emerged again in 1933 as the Mt. Helena and Calistoga Wine Company. The company was a giant of its time and produced over 500,000 gallons of wine.

    A year later, the economic condition facing independent growers propelled Charles Forni to organize the Napa Valley Cooperative and in 1935, the Co-op purchased the winery. Forni was a decisive force in Napa Valley for the next fifty years until his death in 1986, a few months short of his 100th birthday. He was responsible for the Co-op he founded rise to the status of largest wine facility in the Napa Valley. As early as 1937, some 8,500 tons were consigned for crushing at the winery, estimated to be around 40% of the entire grape production in Napa.

    By 1967, the Napa Valley Co-op was producing around 2,500,000 gallons annually, and was at the height of its success. Forni was ever active in matters affecting the wine industry and was one of the original four founding fathers of the Napa Valley Vintners Association, which controls the policy stance for many of today’s Napa Valley wineries.

    Edgewood Estate bought the property in 1994 and embarked on an immediate course to restore the property to its original usage and statue. An incredible restoration and renovation project is still under way under the direction of Founder/President Jeff O’ Neill. O’Neill is dedicated to preserving the winery’s natural heritage and has insured that the original winery remains intact in its original location. At some point, Edgewood hopes to be able to open the site to the general public.

    Another interesting historical artifact is the original architecture of the 1885 winery that today resides in the middle of Edgewood’s barrel warehouse. This ghost winery is extremely well preserved and available to visitors who know how to ask for the privilege of seeing the original workplace.

    Chances are the Edgewood Estate personnel will show you the old winery without many fanfares. They are justifiably proud of their place in the history of Napa Valley and are willing to share it with you.

    Gold Medal Wine Club is proud to offer Edgewood Estate’s wines to our members in much the same spirit. We know you will enjoy this month’s Gold Medal Wine Club's selections from Edgewood Estate.

    Each and every wine selected for our six different Wine Clubs meets our strict guidelines for quality and rating criteria. Each wine is handcrafted by an authentic, small-production boutique winery with a compelling story to tell like the one above. Since our first Gold Wine Club shipment in 1992, we have added five more impressive Wine Clubs to choose from—each a showcase for highly-rated, sought-after wines you can enjoy as a Gold Medal, wine of the month club member.

    Jeff O&rsquo Neill - Wine Industry visionary

    Practically everyone associated with Jeff O&rsquo Neill is firmly convinced he is a visionary in the strictest sense of the word. At 44, he is the Founder/President of Edgewood Estates, and is purposefully positioning his winery to compete with the top wineries in Napa Valley.

    O&rsquoNeill grew up in neighboring Marin County (Kentfield to be exact) and discovered his interest in wine while he was an underclassman at the University of the Pacific. First, he found that he enjoyed drinking wine and later helped pay his college bills by selling wine on a door to door basis. It&rsquos also possible the inspiration for his efforts started a bit earlier in his family. In the post-Prohibition era around 1936, his Armenian grandfather originated a wine cooperative in the small Central Valley town of Cutler, CA and began producing wine. Jeff remembers the stories around his house when he was young and agrees that such an earlier historical influence made his decision to enter the wine business all the easier.

    Today, Jeff O&rsquoNeill is determined to turn Edgewood Estates into a world class production facility and at the same time insure that the higher segment of the buying public takes note of its flagship brand. O&rsquo Neill carefully selects the fruit that is used for each wine.

    &lsquoBecause the former company was a co-op and therefore has many sources of grapes, we felt it necessary to develop a system for what we bought. Even though most of the fruit was really high quality, we were only able to buy from a small percentage of our former growers,” he confided. &lsquoThat decision represents our dedication to be the best of the best, and we&rsquove managed to stick to it so far.”

    The entire process of restoring/building Edgewood Estates has been a labor of love for O&rsquo Neill. He first decided to move and then transplant some sixty sycamore trees that were scattered about the property and now make up a picturesque alley to the winery. Next came a second assessment to turn another section of the property that served as a lawn into its former usage as vineyard rows. Through it all, Jeff O&rsquo Neill has doggedly kept Edgewood Estates heading in an upward direction. He is convinced that the moves he is making with regard to the physical plant will make it one of the real showcase facilities in Napa.

    Fifteen acres at Edgewood Estates are planted in mostly Bordeaux varietals with Cabernet Sauvignon serving as the predominant type. The total production runs at an annual rate of just over 12,000 cases, a level O&rsquoNeill feels perfectly suits his operation at this stage of its development.

    &lsquoThe hardest thing to find in Napa is sources of truly top class grapes,” he added. &lsquoMost of the great vineyards are already under long term contract to other wineries, and it&rsquos practically impossible to make a quality statement without great fruit as a basis for your wines.”

    Another seven acres will be planted this year, a fact that will maximize the property from a growing perspective. Jeff O&rsquoNeill intends to continue his search for superior independent growers, and will grow Edgewood Estates as the occasions arise.

    He points with pride that Edgewood Estate wines are sold worldwide (some 30 countries) and fully realizes that his wines are each a handsell. He also realizes the thin air in Napa his competition enjoys and that fact doesn&rsquot phase him one bit.

    He points with great pride at his Estate-bottled Meritage blend that is aptly called Tradition. It is grown and produced (about 250 cases annually) exclusively at the winery and sells in the range of $35 - $45 per bottle.

    &lsquoWe at Edgewood want to grow and produce the finest red grapes in the entire valley,” O&rsquoNeill offered. &lsquoWe are fortunate to have the resources and determination to see our plan through to its natural fruition. We saw this entire project as an opportunity that was untapped and decided to do something about it.”

    Napa Valley insiders have watched the transformation of the Edgewood property and the development of its wines. There are few that doubt the project is destined for success.


    The History Of California’s Zinfandel Wines

    For many of us, winter means a blazing fireplace and Sunday stews. For those of us planning to be in warmer climates, it’s time for a jacket and maybe a brisk walk in the morning. No matter where you live, winter is the season to move to heartier red wines.

    Jeff Perlegos (Courtesy: Lodi Win by Stephanie Russo)

    There’s probably no other grape variety as American as zinfandel, a European grape variety introduced in the West Coast during the Gold Rush of the mid 19 th century. A prolific grape of murky origin, zinfandel vineyards baked in California’s hot sun and produced a lot of grapes for jug wines. They served the home winemaker quite well during Prohibition when eager amateur winemakers preferred zinfandel because it was the earliest to ripen.

    Not only did zinfandel survive 13 years of this failed era, but its vineyards were largely spared the 1990s’ phylloxera scourge that decimated vineyards planted with old world varieties. Thus, many of the existing zinfandel vineyards, grown on St. George rootstock, are more than 100 years old.

    Today, vineyards planted with St. George rootstock in the 1920s continue to thrive in places like Lodi, where sandy soil acted as an irritant to the bedeviling root louse. Old vines have reduced vigor as they age, but the grapes are often intense. These vines look more like trees – known as “lodi ladders” — because they were planted by arborists instead of viticulturists.

    Kevin Phillips of Phillips Farms grows grapes on the historic Bechthold Vineyard, first planted in 1886. He said of old vines, “When it’s said and done, they’re a pain in the ass. But I adore them. They just require a lot more care.”

    Zinfandel Advocates and Producers is on a quest to bring attention and preservation to these legendary zinfandel vineyards.

    The value of getting the last breath from withering vines may be more about pride than it is about producing superior wine. Those winemakers with whom we recently spoke admitted that it would grieve them to abandon a vineyard established by pioneers.

    Robert Biale, owner and president of Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa Valley, said he is part preservationist. He draws grapes from the R.W. Moore Vineyard which was planted by a seafarer in 1905.

    “Zinfandel has such a long, deep history – more than cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir. We’re just lucky to have this kind of urgency to keep them in the ground,” he said.

    Coaxing old, gnarly grape vines to produce fruit each year is akin to coaxing an old dog to chase a ball. The desire isn’t there, but a little encouragement goes a long way. Each vine has its own personality, so it is incumbent on experienced hands to patiently care for it. That’s why you won’t find single-vineyard zinfandels in the portfolios of large commercial producers who look for bigger yields.

    Why bother with these vines? Old zinfandel vines produce wine of great concentration and suppleness. Every time we taste one of these giants, we taste terroir, history and, of course, layers of beautiful fruit.

    These single-vineyard zinfandels are very different from one another but their intensity puts them above the pack. They are very special.

    Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr, MoreAboutWine, posted on SouthFloridaReporter.com, Jan. 11, 2021

    Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly wine column for more than 30 years. Additional Wine reviews on MoreAboutWine

    All photos are randomly selected and do not indicate any preferred wine. Listed prices are subject to change


    The Tangled Tale of Zinfandel

    Jammy. Brambly. Bold. These are descriptors often used when talking about Zinfandel, a California grape with a tempestuous past, but a possibly promising future.

    Zinfandel&rsquos history dates back to the 1830s on the East Coast and continued to move west, where it landed in California around 1850. Prohibition drove it to the brink of commercial extinction, and it wasn&rsquot until the 1970s when it started to regain its footing in California&rsquos wine industry. Its old, gnarly vines produced low yields of fruit, but it was strong enough to (accidentally) create one of the most popular wines of the 1980s and &rsquo90s. Until 1998, Zinfandel was California&rsquos most widely planted grape, producing wines that were dry, fruit-forward, hefty on the palate, a little sweet, and often high in alcohol. Due to what now can be viewed as overzealous experimentation, Zinfandel was quickly outdone by its popular half-sibling, White Zinfandel, and acquired the reputation as a cheap, sweet blush wine with a relatively low alcohol content. As a result, the true star&rsquos light began to dim, and Zinfandel became guilty by association.

    According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture&rsquos 2019 Preliminary Grape Crush Report, Zinfandel remains the third most popular varietal among California wines, totaling 8.4 percent of the state&rsquos total crush volume in 2019. Additionally, winemakers aren&rsquot only producing styles that are textbook Zin expressions&mdashwith big, bold, black and red fruit flavors, and peppery and herbal notes&mdashbut there are also styles that are lighter, less aggressive on the palate, and blended versions where the grape plays leading and supporting roles.

    Zinfandel is misunderstood and nuanced with subtleties that can speak to any wine drinker willing to listen. Part of the lingering aversion to Zinfandel among some consumers isn&rsquot because it tastes tart, astringent, or overly sweet, or that it doesn&rsquot pair well with foods beyond barbecue and burgers&mdashbut because there hasn&rsquot been enough knowledge shared on a broader scale about its true depth, complexity, and distinctiveness.

    Cara Patricia, sommelier and co-founder of DECANTsf, a wine shop and bar in San Francisco, finds that customers who ask for Zinfandel tend to be older, and they frequently ask for the same producers. &ldquoWhen people often think about Zinfandel, they&rsquore thinking about something that&rsquos really jammy, maybe high in alcohol, and something that shouldn&rsquot cost a lot of money,&rdquo she says. &ldquoAnd that&rsquos kind of to the detriment of modern and premium producers. Zinfandel is kind of like Chardonnay where people only think it comes in one style&mdashbut it doesn&rsquot. In our shop, we like to show the different sides of it.&rdquo

    While it can be grown throughout California&rsquos winemaking regions, Lodi, in the Central Valley, has been the self-proclaimed capital of Zinfandel for many years. According to the California Agricultural Statistics Service, in 2018, San Joaquin was California&rsquos top county for Zinfandel acreage, tallying an impressive 17,098 acres. There, the Mediterranean-style climate has warm days and cool evenings, and with help from the cool breezes of the San Joaquin and Sacramento River deltas, Lodi has been able to maintain old vines dating back to the late 1880s that are still yielding high-quality fruit. The sandy loam soils in Lodi also help to enhance the flavor of the wines when they end up in the bottle.

    But before figuring out Zinfandel&rsquos present, it&rsquos important to look at its past, and to ask, how did Zinfandel&rsquos story get so tangled? And how can wine drinkers grow to love it again?

    Zinfandel should be considered among California&rsquos crown jewels&mdashbut it&rsquos often counted out as a grape variety because of its perceived ukus. That&rsquos no fault of winemakers&mdashZinfandel is a variety that grows unevenly. Zinfandel vines aren&rsquot like more typical vines that grow vertically out of the ground with breezy canopies, producing massive bunches of fruit. Instead, Zinfandel&rsquos vines are short, with stumpy trunks and branches that grow out in many directions. On the bunch, some of its thin-skinned, delicate grapes may be ready for harvest, while others may be underripe and hard, or even dried-out raisins. Sending mixed clusters like this into the winery to be crushed and pressed can ultimately give off what The Wine Bible author Karen MacNeil calls a &ldquosweet and sour sauce&rdquo taste.

    A byproduct of Zinfandel&rsquos identity&mdashthe free-run juice&mdashhas given many wine consumers a false impression of the grape over the years. White Zinfandel, the blush pink, sweet wine, was actually an accident made by Sutter Home winemaker Bob Trinchero in 1972. As the story goes, Trinchero would use runoff juice from Zinfandel he had made to create a drier wine and label it &ldquoWhite Zinfandel.&rdquo One day, a batch of White Zin didn&rsquot fully ferment, and the result was a wine with low alcohol and high sugar content. It became an overnight sensation that took the &rsquo80s and &rsquo90s by storm, which kept old Zinfandel vines hard at work but didn&rsquot give them the shine they deserved.

    For Lydia Richards, senior account executive and wine specialist at Colangelo & Partners Public Relations, it was Sutter Home&rsquos White Zin that cemented her idea of Zinfandel being a wine that was only pink, affordable, and simple. As she studied to become a sommelier, however, this perception began to shift. &ldquoThe deeper I delved into my courses, as well as tastings, the more I became fascinated with what true Zinfandel wine could really be,&rdquo she says. &ldquoLearning about it being the same grape variety as Primitivo completely changed my perception and made me appreciate its long history as a premier, quality grape for wine production.&rdquo

    Often referred to as Zinfandel&rsquos identical twin from Italy, Primitivo comes from the same DNA of the Croatian grape known as crljenak kastelanski. This was discovered and confirmed in the early 2000s, and it allowed scientists to identify the distinct differences between the three grapes. Primitivo, with its own unique characteristics, can make dry and sweet Italian wines and also be used as a blending grape.

    &ldquoZinfandel is like any other famous grape. It comes in so many different style, and you really need to keep tasting to figure out what style really speaks to you.&rdquo &mdashCara Patricia

    Aaron Cherny, co-founder of the wine company Source & Sink, left his finance career in Chicago in 2017 to make wine in California&rsquos Sonoma County. When he and co-founder Rande Feldman decided to start Source & Sink, they wanted to express the uniqueness of the California wine heritage that was best represented with grape varieties planted pre-Prohibition. &ldquoThe Source & Sink Zinfandel represents the diversity of topography, soils, and exposure at Kimberly Vineyard in Sonoma County,&rdquo Cherny says. &ldquoAt this site, we have three different sections of vine age: one from 1906, one from the 1970s, and the other planted in the mid-1990s. Within each block we see vines that yield fruit with a range of large and small clusters and berries, resulting in a wine that is more concentrated with only 12 to 13 percent, [a] lower alcohol.&rdquo

    While a little bit of hang time can help Zinfandel, Cherny says too much oak and overripeness through late harvesting can take away some of the grape&rsquos inherent beauty. &ldquoIt can make for formulaic, boring wines that are overly boozy and taste like imitation vanilla,&rdquo he says.

    In his 2003 book Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wine, Charles E. Sullivan took on the challenge of uncovering the mystery of this grape variety. Over the course of almost 200 pages, Sullivan explores Zinfandel&rsquos history from the 1870s to the dawn of the new millennium. What was initially meant to be a table grape found its way into vineyards across California and then produced impressive wines. The big questions for even Sullivan are the vines, their age, and how after so much time they can still produce concentrated fruit.

    For many winemakers, cracking this particular code of the Zinfandel mystery is something that doesn&rsquot happen overnight. When Chrissy Wittmann, director of winemaking at The Prisoner Wine Company, started working with the brand in 2016, she didn&rsquot have much experience with the variety, but she was fascinated by its complexity. &ldquoIt&rsquos hard to grow Zinfandel grapes, and hard to make wine from Zin depending on the desired style,&rdquo she says. &ldquoI&rsquod always heard what a pain, but I had no idea until I started making wines from many different Zin vineyards. I can say it can be extremely difficult, but I could not be happier to have the chance.&rdquo

    Wittmann describes The Prisoner&rsquos expression of Zinfandel as an ode to the old-vine vineyards, ultimate grape maturity, and terroir. Sourcing fruit from Dry Creek, Lodi, and Mendocino, Wittmann and her team were able to capture each vineyard&rsquos distinctive climate, and terroir plays a huge role in the quality and character of the bottle. &ldquoOur method of blending a Zinfandel base with small amounts of Petite Sirah and Syrah makes Saldo a truly unique expression of Zinfandel. With very hot days and cool nights from the delta breeze, Zins from Lodi tend to be rich and ripe, with softer tannins,&rdquo she says. &ldquoFrom Mendocino, where there are rocky, volcanic soils and some of our vineyards sit up in higher elevation, there&rsquos a larger tannin structure with extra spice. Dry Creek in Sonoma County has some red, gravelly, well-drained soils that make for stressful growing conditions and concentrated Zinfandel.&rdquo

    As winemakers get more creative with bringing forth various expressions of Zinfandel, wine drinkers should be encouraged not to limit their thinking when it comes to the unique heritage grape, but to embrace it for all that it&rsquos worth. Producers like Bodkin Wines, Monte Rio, Day Wines, and Las Jaras are getting creative with Zinfandel and going beyond the traditional expressions that may turn consumers off from even pursuing the grape variety. &ldquoWhile there are plenty of consumers who enjoy bold, intensely dark fruit Zins with black pepper and baking spices, there are very different, unique, lighter expressions being made,&rdquo says Lydia Richards of Colangelo. &ldquoThat&rsquos certainly a missed opportunity in terms of bringing the variety forth to a wider range of wine-loving consumers looking to try something new and exciting.&rdquo

    Another missed opportunity could be not taking risks on pairing Zinfandel with the right foods. Language makes a big difference in ensuring that consumers are aware of what&rsquos in a bottle before they decide to purchase it. &ldquoIt&rsquos a misapprehension that Zinfandel is a winter wine, since it pairs perfectly with a classic pot roast or hearty lamb dish,&rdquo says Wittmann. &ldquoWhile this is true, it&rsquos actually a perfect year-round wine.&rdquo

    At her San Francisco shop, Cara Patricia believes there should be more discussions about the different styles of Zinfandel that can be big and bold, easy-drinking, or experimental and unusual. &ldquoZinfandel is like any other famous grape,&rdquo she says. &ldquoIt comes in so many different styles, and you really need to keep tasting to figure out what style really speaks to you.&rdquo


    Learn About Zinfandel, Both Red & White

    Zinfandel is synonymous with California wine. The red variety is planted in more than 10 percent of all Californian vineyards and is an influential player in the state’s wine industry. California’s hot and dry climate creates big, bold flavors along with some of the highest alcohol content of any red wine on the market (between 14 and 17 percent).

    Zinfandel In 60 Seconds

    • Zinfandel produces full-bodied, robust red wines. In the United States, it’s also known for the semi-sweet rosé, White Zinfandel.
    • A key component in Californian red blends, Zinfandel adds concentrated and juicy fruit flavors. Varietal Zinfandel is most commonly found in regions such as Lodi.
    • Lodi, in Central California, is known to have some of the country’s oldest Zinfandel vines, some of which are more than 100 years old.
    • Zinfandel flavors are determined by the ripeness of the grapes at harvest time. Red berry flavors dominate in wines from slightly cooler areas while black fruit and spice are more prevalent in wines from warmer regions.

    The Origins of Zinfandel

    The true origin of Zinfandel was relatively unknown until recently. When Zinfandel began to be planted widely throughout California in the mid-1800s, it was generally accepted that it was a grape indigenous to the U.S. The vines thrived in the California climate, and many believed the grape must have existed in the region all along. It wasn’t until the 1960s when a professor from U.C. Davis traveled to Italy and noticed similarities between Primitivo grapes and Zinfandel grapes that people began to question the grape’s origins.

    Following the professor’s trip, many concluded that Primitivo was the connection to the iconic California Zinfandel, and that was that. As DNA testing became more advanced, scientists eventually discovered that the grape didn’t originate in Italy at all. Instead, it was found that the grape was born in Croatia.

    With the discovery of the grape’s true origin came theories on how it made its way to California. Between 1820 and 1829, a horticulturist in Long Island received shipments of grape vines from the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria. It is believed that the Zinfandel vines were included in those shipments. From this point, the vine made its way across the country during the California Gold Rush, and the rest is history.

    California Zinfandel

    Zinfandel is grown in several areas across California such as Napa Valley, parts of Sonoma (including Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley), and Lodi. The grape has a tendency to ripen unevenly, with raisined and under-ripe grapes often found on the same bunch. For versions destined to be red wine, the grapes that are more ripe produce concentrated, juicy, and brambly flavors of raspberry, blackberry and plum, in addition to subtle herbaceous qualities, such as licorice and sweet tobacco.

    Old Vine Zinfandel, often from Lodi, is known to be even bigger in flavor and more intense than younger counterparts. Considered to be a more premium version of the wine, Old Vine Zinfandel typically commands a higher price.

    The grapes grown to make White Zinfandel come from California’s Central Valley and are grown specifically to make the semi-sweet, pink wine. White Zinfandel first became famous in the mid-1970s after the demand for white wine exceeded the availability of white grapes. So, producers started making white wine by using red grapes. With minimum skin contact and by stopping the fermentation before all the sugar is converted to alcohol, the infamous sweet wine was born. Today, White Zinfandel has fallen largely out of fashion with consumers. However, its approachable and easy-drinking profile makes it a mainstay on grocery store shelves and accounts for nearly 10 percent of wine sales across the country.

    Italian “Zinfandel,” aka Primitivo

    In Italy, Zinfandel is known as Primitivo. Its home is in Puglia, which lies in south-eastern Italy. Also known as the “heel” of the country, the Puglian coast runs along the Adriatic Sea. Here, the hot climate produces high-yielding, fruity versions of the wine. High-quality versions are produced when yields are controlled. It’s not uncommon to find Primitivo blended with Negroamaro, another grape that’s native to the region.

    Foods To Pair With Zinfandel

    The best food pairing is dependent on the style of Zinfandel you choose to drink. Fresh and fruity white Zinfandel tastes best with dishes that have lean protein, like chicken or pork, especially when doused in a tomato-based sauce. Medium-bodied versions, which have greater complexity and layers of spice (both peppery and baking) go great with marinated lamb chops or grilled sausage. Full-bodied Zinfandel that is robust with concentrated flavors is best with heavier dishes such as a roast vegetable pasta medley or ribs off the BBQ.


    Gledaj video: Сорт винограда Зинфандель.


Komentari:

  1. Zululkis

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  2. Ruben

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  5. Deiphobus

    I removed this phrase



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